Gonzalez Byass 'Matusalem' Oloroso Sherry VORS (30 years)

I've written positively about Byass' VORS sherries before, but this Oloroso goes far beyond anything else I've tasted from Byass. Pouring a sticky thick brown like caramelized sugar, this 20.5% ABV concoction had an astounding level of depth and complexity. On the nose I got nuts, sage, brown sugar, marjoram, date, and figs (both dried and fresh). The palate was huge, sweet, balanced, and very intense: wood, smoke, figs, peat, cigar, and sage notes made this almost a cross between sherry and scotch and unlike any wine I've had before. In fact, when you pair this with fried tapas, chorizo, dates, and hard spanish cheeses you will realize this is perhaps one of the finest Olorosos, indeed sherries, you could have.

Excellent+
$35 for 375ml at BCLDB

Palacio de Fefinanes Albarino 2007

I've tried a few albarinos before, often appreciating their easy drinking but not so much their lack of complexity. I think I just never got into the good stuff. This particular albarino comes to Vancouver from one of its most respected producers in Spain, thanks to Marquis Wine Cellars' John Clerides, who never fails to find some of the most unique and good value wines all across the world.

The nose on this had lemon, lime, and grapefruit not unlike a riesling. The palate was very impressive, with stone, apple, and lime predominating. The mid-palate held a full body and clean acidity. Somewhat like a cross between pinot blanc and riesling, I loved the cleanliness, the full body, and the superb food friendliness. Its very slightly off-dry character made it perfect for pairing with chorizo. I could imagine this wine perfectly paired with a chorizo mussel dish. Great stuff and the best Albarino I've yet had.

Very Good+ to Excellent and Highly Recommended
$30 at Marquis

Arrocal Seleccion 2004

With its minimalist design, the Arrocal is another excellent value red from Spain's Ribera del Duero. If you like big robust reds at affordable prices look no further. It strikes me that Spanish wine tends to fly a little under the radar here in BC, and perhaps in North America generally. I'm not quite sure why as most of Spain is offering not only better value than France and California but also many extremely 'terroir' driven wines.

This particular Tempranillo had a nose of baked raspberry, strawberry pie, graphite and dust. The palate was big on baked fruit, but had wonderful undertones of herbs and dried out underbrush. This is a large red with edge and fruit without sweetness that will kill most BBQ's and braised meats.

Very Good+ and Highly Recommended
$24 at BCLDB

NB: I've started a new 'category' for this blog for 'Highly Recommended Values', which are all wines that both far exceed their price point and offer something particularly unique to the drinker.

Gonzalez Byass 'Apostoles' Palo Cortado (30 years)

And now for something completely different, or at least moderately so. I don't get the occasion to write about Sherry too often, mostly because there is a dearth of selection in the BC market. However, a few impressive high end aged sherries have recently started to trickle through the morass of government controlled liquor distribution, occasioning an opportunity I hope to continue to take advantage of in the future.

Palo Cortado is a rare type of sherry that sits between Amontillado and Oloroso in sweetness level, making it off-dry, but still moderately sweet. This particular Palo Cortado had brown sugar, caramel and baking spice on the classic oxydized nose. The palate was full and complete with apple, fig and caramel. Big up front, this also had great layering and is a wonderful pairing with rich cheeses. However, it doesn't match Fino or Manzanilla in their beautiful ability to pair with cured meats and tapas. Nonetheless, this was much more complex and certainly would gain depth and balance with more age. 20% ABV.

Very Good (I suspect higher with more bottle age)
$35/375ml at BCLDB or Kits Wine Cellar

Valsacro Dioro Seleccion Rioja 2001

Beer tends to predominate in my drinking patterns during hot weather, of which Vancouver has had plenty in the past few weeks. With a brief chilly evening, however, I took the opportunity to open a nice modern styled Rioja from a great vintage.

At 14% ABV this had a slightly hot but very complex nose with char, cocao, roasted nuts, cassis, black cherry and sage. I love when the aromas of a wine are as deep and layered as in this wonderful tempranillo - it provides the mind with limitless whimsy and makes drinking an end in itself rather than a means to one.

The palate was woody and had excellent tertiary flavours of chalk, stone and tar. Even with a little heat, the richness of the caramel and vanilla elements was greatly tempered by the much more dominant minerality. In the end, this is an herbal, stone-like savory wine that is far drier than the fruity nose suggests. While finishing with a little heat, I also appreciated the great balance of fruit, wood, dust and stone.

Excellent
$? (I believe in the $50-$70 range) at BCLDB

Bodegas El Nida Clio 2006

Spanish wine you say? Really? Apparently from the Jumilla region, I couldn't get any sense of terroir off of this absolutely lush wine-candy. This is a super high scoring Parker wine that has gone from costing around $20 USD to $45 ($90 in Canada) in a matter of 2-3 years. I suppose that's what consistent 95+ scores will do for a winery. This, however, is certainly set to be controversial.

The colour was a nice pretty purple, reminding me a little of one of the many beautiful sunsets that grace English Bay in Vancouver. The nose here was like raspberry and cherry candy, with vanilla custard poured on top. A very big and very oaky palate made this a cream puff kind of wine, with a deep and extracted quality to the fruit. This had tons of chocolate, cassis, cherry and raspberry as the driving force, but managed to retain a decent amount of acidity so as to avoid being overly sweet and flabby. At 30% Cabernet and 70% Monastrell (Mourvedre) there is almost no way to detect any varietal characteristics. This is not ideal for food because it is so extracted, candy-like and alcoholic (15.9%), but it is great for the style.

If I can be so bold, I would call this a Spanish version of Mollydooker's Carnival of Love, which if you have tasted and enjoyed The Boxer is a much more complex and better structured version of that wine. In fact, I might even say that I like this better than the $100 (even in the US) bottle of Carnival of Love. I can see why Parker would give this a good score for if you are into the style, this is a great value wine (at least for those lucky US residents).

Very Good+
$45 at K&L

Vega Sindoa Cabernet Sauvignon / Tempranillo 2006

I will be off for "Spring Break" in a few moments, which will result in my absence from the blogosphere for a few days - but I thought a tasty good value wine was the appropriate send off given that I have some serious notes to write up when I return for a recent trip to Napa and the Rhone Rangers tasting.

Another small production wine, this time from Navarra, Spain. Very earthy on the nose with some blackberry and other berry notes. The nose is reminiscent of the myriad odours one unearthed when digging in one's childhood backyard garden.


The palate was spicy, full bodied, but yet subtle with a soft mouthfeel, but grippy tannins on the late mid-palate and finish. This is a pretty fantastic value of a wine, and another score for Vintage Berkeley.


Very Good+
$19 at Vintage Berkeley

Atalayas de Golban 2004

Another big chunky Ribera del Duero wine from Spain - this area seems pretty reliable for good value fruity and tannic wine with distinct terroir. Here we have a relatively good value wine with a nose of rich red berry fruits, chocolate and earth. The palate, while not stunningly complex, was filled with flavour and had strawberry, cherry, blackberry and toast. A little hot on the back end, this is still a good pairing for big meat dishes.

Very Good
$34 ($24 on sale) at BCLDB

Alvaro Palacios Finca Dofi 2001

With this bottle Alvaro Palacios is prooving his consistency. I have previously enjoyed the entry level Les Terrasses bottling from Priorat, and had occasion this holiday to open the higher end Finca Dofi. I heard that Dofi actually ages unlike many bottles from Priorat, so I thought this 7 year old bottle would be an interesting experiment.

The nose had a brunch-like element: pancakes and maple syrup, spices like nutmeg and cinnamon, and blackberry. The palate was a nice combination of finesse and power with spicey chocolate blackberry crepes dusted with sugar, and a rounded woodyness. Structure and finish were both there in a very high class way, but what made this special was its character as a very unique and refined terroir driven expression of Grenache.

Excellent+
$100 ($68 on sale) at BCLDB

Uvaguilera Aguilera Palomero 1999

This wine came highly recommended to me as a special bit of juice from Ribera del Duero in Spain. Despite the price difference with the US (it is $40 there), I decided to give this a try because of the recommendation. Apparently Uvaguilera also makes a barrel selection version of this wine from the top 40 barrels, at twice the price.

This wine certainly aged well - it had a nose of blackberry, earth and vanilla that was rich and intense while also being perfumed and exceedingly pleasant. The palate had a limestone edge with distinct herbs, licorice and lush black berry fruit filling out the mouth. This was very very layered and had a complexity and depth way beyond the norm. The very long finish 45-60 seconds made this a great wine - and, if you could get it at the US price, the steal of the century.

Excellent to Excellent+
$95 at Everything Wine

Alvaro Palacios 'Les Terrasses' 2005

Having just finished my second last exam yesterday, it is time for some more catch up posting! This particular wine is made by one of the all-stars of Spain's now famous Priorat region. Alvaro Palacios was one of the pioneers for Priorat and has seen the wines from this region go from backwater jug-wine to world-class cult wine, with Palacio's top wine L'ermita going for $888 here at BC Liquor.

This wine is Palacio's entry-level wine, and while still not cheap, offers tremendous value. This is not an over the top mega wine that Priorat has become known for. This is, rather, one of the most complex expressions of Grenache that you can get at this price point. With a nose of cherry, licorice, and leather this was still a bit tight at the time of drinking - although also still expressive. Clearly there will be more to this nose in the future. The palate was leathery, earth and replete with blackberry. Dense and concentrated without being opulent, this wine is not at all flabby and has tight acidity and a strong tannic back-bone. Really here we have a wine with superb aging potential, incredible concentration, and real personality. A brilliant wine and vintage. Very highly recommended.

Excellent to Excellent+
$55 at BCLDB

Conde de la Salceda Rioja Reserva 2001

I have been developing a taste for Rioja lately, but I like a style that walks the line between the new and the old world. Sometimes I find classic Rioja a bit too reserved and out of balance, but some other examples have really sored. I think what makes a good Rioja special is its ability to combine quality fruit with savory characteristics without going too far in either direction. This particular wine was a gift from a good friend.

On the nose I found big red berries - mainly raspberry - and earth. The palate was very juicy with chocolate, cherry and raspberry. The mid-palate and finish brought in earthy notes and a nice mineral core. While not complex, this was a well made and tightly balanced tempranillo, somewhat like an acrobat walking the tight rope: it carries a heavy burden of fruit down a thin wire of earth, minerals and acid. My only complaint is a tinge of mustiness on the palate that may be the result of very slight cork taint. Otherwise, this was very well made.

Very Good+
$? (Gift)

Torres Mas La Plana Gran Corona 1994

For once I am writing a note contemporaneously to drinking, and I think that's because I am having a hard time with this wine. I am not quite sure if it does it for me or not. Here we have a pretty aged Cabernet Sauvignon from Spain - one with a splendid reputation. The nose was typical cab to me with cassis, cedar and earth. But when moving into the palate this has lost most if not all of its fruit, while also picking up plenty of secondary flavours. The question for me, though, is do I like wine with severely diminished fruit?

There is no doubt that plenty is happening on the palate with cedar, tobacco, leaf, earth, cigar box, tar, and graphite. Still firm tannins hold the wine together and there is a lot going on despite the fact I detect a subtle hint of cork taint (should I return this?). The lingering finish is long and robust. But, there is no fruit to carry the wine forward. I feel there is only so much tar I can take without a counter-balance. I have experienced before with other famous aged cabs (a 1983 Chateau Haut-Brion for instance). I'm not quite sure if it is my preferences, or if I need something more like the 1993 Shafer Hillside Select I tried in Napa a couple years ago (still wearing plenty of fruit while also carrying fantastic secondary and tertiary flavours similar to this wine). A tough call, but I feel many would love this wine.

P.S. with air the fruit has come through into the palate and the nose has added a distinctly gamey component. It is getting a lot better, and ups my rating one notch. In fact, the fact the fruit now pushes through makes a huge difference and I think this is better than the 1997 Gruaud Larose I had a while back. Interesting.

Excellent
$70 at BCLDB

El Maestro Sierra Fino

The march of the sherry bottles continues. This fino was another NYC purchase and added a great deal of complexity to the mix compared to the Manzanilla I just reviewed. With a nose of banana chip, musty oak, a slight Gewerztaminer element and baked brown sugar I was quite entranced. Pairing superbly with cured meats, the palate was quite expansive with smoky, spicey, fennel-esque and herbal notes all coming together in a well structured very food friendly sip. Highly recommended.

Excellent
$15 for 375ml in NYC

La Cigarrera Manzanilla Sherry

I am not sure why, but the marvelous style of wine from Andalucia in Spain seems mostly lost to North Americans. Perhaps it was the dominance of nasty British cream sherries that did it. Nonetheless, the rediscovery of sherry is beginning and I have finally jumped on for the ride. I recommend any self-respecting wine-geek to do the same as there are some stunning experiences to be had. I am planning on heading to Jerez next year and am very very excited given my experiences so far.

This is the first sherry I tried in a traditional style. Manzanilla's are very very dry and should be consumed young. The nose on this had the distinctively oxydized smell that typifies sherry, but also brought forward raisins, nectarine and honey. The sherry itself was a little thin in flavour, but was certainly nutty and salty - a bit like the sea. Very dry and acidic, this is meant to pair with food, particularly cured meats and tapas, which I did. Pairing sherry is perhaps the most fantastic experience I've had with pairing yet. So, while in the end I found this particular sherry a tad too alcoholic (insofar as I could taste too much alcohol), at the price it was a good buy. And, it began my journey towards even more exciting sherries, many of which will pop up in future posts.

Very Good
$15 for 375ml in NYC

Alto Moncayo 2003

This Spanish wine comes from the little known Campo de Borja region and is 100% Grenache. 2003 being a hot year, I expected alcohol, and this beast brought home over 15% alcohol by volume, although it carried this quite well. The nose had classic sweet cherry notes and an interesting aroma of rich nuttyness, reminiscent of hazlenut. The palate expanded the sweet cherry into meatyness and a pronounced scorched earth flavour and texture (probably from the heat, although I find this characteristic of old-world Grenache).

The structure of the wine was well-rounded and had good balance for such high alcohol. A nice touch of oak led into a slight scent of bitterness on the back end, which I was unsure if I liked or not. Tasty, but overpriced.

Very Good+
$65 ($42 on sale) at BCLDB

Bodegas y Vinedos Alion 2002

I picked this up on sale, which I assume was due to the fact this came from a lesser vintage. However, I heard these guys are pretty reliable in less than perfect vintages so I thought it would be worth a try.The nose was very blackberry, vanilla cream puff, and raspberry pie a la mode. Very aromatic, this really needs to go with food due to its relatively high acidity and tang. The palate tasted much like cranberry, raspberry, and with air chocolate coated cherry.

I found it somewhat closed, perhaps suggesting the need for more bottle age, but with air it added a lot of weight. The finish was very long, at around 40-50 seconds. However, I have to confess that I was hoping for more from this famous wine. It was still good and enjoyable, but just not at the level suggested by its reputation. Perhaps it was the year (although the wine mags scored this pretty well).

Very Good+

$95 ($65 on sale) at BCLDB

PradoRey Elite Tinta Fina 1999

This Ribera del Duero wine comes from a relatively new producer, PradoRey. They have an extensive lineup of wines, but this came highly recommended from a respect store owner. I found it an astonishing amalgam of a southern Rhone grenache blend and a Portuguese dry Douro red.

Extremely sophisticated, the nose was very rich and layered, with currant and dark fruit laced in with minerals in an almost Amarone-like manner. The palated expanded the currant flavours and brought in subtle blackberry and an intense mineral core. In fact, I would liken the structure of the minerality to a northern Rhone Cote-Rotie. A touch of oak integrated all the superbly-balanced fruit with the acidic mineral core and released many repeating layers of flavour on the finish, which was 30-45 seconds. This is a truly exceptional wine.

Excellent+

$55 at Steamworks Liquor Store (also available at Everything Wine)

Lagar de Cervera Albarino 2005

Having tried a relatively cheap Albarino a few months ago and not loving it, but realizing its potential, I resolved to try more Albarino varietals in the future. This is my next attempt, but I have yet to be convinced that Albarino is a worthy white grape.

I found this Rias Biaxas wine to be fairly reserved. The citrus was subdued and coupled with some savory herbal elements that yet did not bring the wine into the territory of deeply layered flavour. I also found it to have a bitter component that did not do so well on its own. However, when paired with Oysters (I shared several dozen with some friends) this Albarino gained poise and complemented the various creamy, briney, and succulent sea flavours of some great BC oysters (I pitty those of you who don't live in the Pacific Northwest). However, I still felt that another white would have worked even better and so Albarino remains on my oddities list. I will certainly try another in the future.

Good+

$25 at Marquis

Torres Mas La Plana 2003

Mas La Plana is a Cabernet based blend made in the Penedes region of Spain by one of Spain's top (or at least most widely known) family wineries. Known as an elegant and stylish wine, Mas La Plana is really an attempt to produce a terroir based approach to an international grape variety. And, on that level, I do believe that Torres has succeeded: this is no heavy-oaked malo-lactic'd pimped out flavour bomb. Rather, this has real terroir and a real sense of style.

The nose was initially almost like a Grenach based Rhone blend - quite surprising. However, the palate was appropriately much more austere and gave up flavours of blackberry, cassis, earth, dust, and meatyness. I also tasted mint, herbs, and savory earth coupled with well integrated and high quality tartness. The finish was medium length and had great elegance. The only issue I had here was that while this had great structure, integration and elegance, overall I found the flavour package a bit boring. Accordingly, I bring down the rating a notch.

Very Good+

$50 at BCLDB