Schlossgut Diel Dorsheimer Goldloch Riesling Spatlese 1997

I've mentioned this before, but I simply can't get over the ease at which one can pick up excellent provenance aged wines for good prices in California. It provides the impatient wine lover with an immediate outlet for experiencing what usually takes fortitude. But, I suppose that is the American way.

The nose on this was very petrolly, but also incredibly deep. I also detected vanilla and a little peach. This has a significant mid-palate that may have been tempered with age. By that I mean the sweetness levels are significantly less than what I'd expect for a full blown non-trocken (dry) Spatlese. The wine is layered and nuanced and slightly effervescent with grapefruit, peach and nectarine predominating. Also, at 7.5% ABV, you can down a whole bottle, which I did with some excellent Thai food. Diel, like Donnhoff, resides in the Nahe region of Germany, and I can say that I am building a very strong appreciation for rieslings from that particular pin on the map.


Very Good+
$40 at K&L

JJ Prum Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett 2007

Being in California makes one wont to constantly consume California wine. But, I would hate to miss out on the deft life of a German riesling such as this. JJ Prum has a vaunted reputation, but we almost never see them in Canada, so this was a no brainer.

A classic petrol, citrus and mineral nose, on the palate this JJ Prum was much more on the dry side with what seemed to be a very low level of residual sugar, even less than most Kabinetts. Very deep and full, and yet lightly effervescent, expressive and lively. This pulls off what the Germans do so well to a T - expression, depth, and an ephemeral body. Everyone owes it to themselves to drink more German riesling, and this is a great place to start. Great wine.

Excellent
$34 at K&L

Donnhoff Riesling Trocken 2006

I've sampled several Donnhoff's now - enough to convince me that with the right producer German Riesling can soar. This example, however, was a bit disappointing, while still being very well made. The nose on this was standard grapefruit and minerals, with the palate offering more grapefruit, lime, and river stones. Nice and soft in the mouth, this Riesling was simple and good, but not at the level of the Estate riesling or the Kabinett reviewed previously. I think Grosset does a better job with dry Riesling at this price point.

Very Good+
$33 at BCLDB

Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Kabinett 2006

Another celebratory wine, opened a couple days after the Almaviva. Hot on the heels of the Estate Riesling (and, frankly, surpassing it), this beauty had a voluptuous nose of mandarin orange and grapefruit. The palate had incredible complexity and was lightly effervescent with clay, mandarin, quince, honey suckle, clementine, persimmon, apple, slate, madagascar vanilla, and flowers. Any long time reader will notice the dramatic multitude of descriptors here, and this is not a transition to a new style. Rather, this is an indication of the shere virtuosity of this wine: emanating an exuberance of flavour that I rarely experience.

Once again I found this to have amazing articulation and balance. A special wine that pulls the palate into its entrancing spell and will not heed to any remonstrations against its seduction. An unctuous and compelling wine at a great price.

Excellent to Excellent+
$38 at BCLDB

Donnhoff Estate Riesling 2006

After listening to Barry and Joe rave about the virtues of Donnhoff, and hearing that BC Liquor got a limited shipment of a few of their rieslings I had to give them a try. This estate riesling is the most widely available Donnhoff, and it still astonished me. I have some of the single vineyard stuff waiting for the right moment, and if this wine is any sign, it will be special.

The nose on this riesling was absolutely fabulous with grapefruit, passionfruit and orange vibrantly rushing forth from the glass. The palate continued these elements while adding apple and minerality. There were two main reasons this wine stood above most rieslings I've had, however. First, it had an incredible articulation and balance of acidity and sugar beyond almost any white I have tasted. Second was the texture. It was long and light in the mouth but also incredibly full flavoured - with slicing minerality that didn't detract from the fruit but actually enlivened it. Amazingly, the acidity was quite restrained, but sufficient to always keep you longing for another sip. Brilliant stuff - get this whenever you can.

Excellent

$33 at BCLDB

Mount Horrocks Watervale Riesling 2007

More catch up - and another Aussie, but this is of a very different ilk than the Glaetzer. I drank this when it was a lot less cold outside. Clare Valley riesling is, unfortunately, a sort of lost treasure in Australian wine. Critics and wine geeks love it, but it is hard convincing the average wine drinker to have a riesling. I know too many people who drink 'only red' or 'hate sweet wines'. 'But it is bone dry!' I protest. If you pair this with asian food, though, you might win a few over.

The nose was classic petrol and lime and pleasantly aromatic. The palate was round and full with lime and sour grapefruit and a very long finish. Extremely full bodied for a riesling, I also detected fascinating notes of brine and river stone. Very very nice stuff and an alternative/comparative to Grosset.

Excellent
$40 at Everything Wine

Dr. Loosen Riesling Auslese "Wehlener Sonnenuhr" 2005

I had this on the same night as the Roslack to compare something at 1/4 of the price. I wanted to get a sense of whether the Roslack was that far superior to an already respect but much more reasonably priced riesling, this time from the Mosel region.

The Loosen Auslese had a nose of classic petrol, minreal and citrus. This was not nearly as complex as the Roslack. Neither was the palate, with whipped cream, trifle, peach and pineapple flushing the palate with dessert-like intensity. I found the sweetness handled less well in this compared to the Roslack, with it being more toffee-like and sticky. The Roslack, on the other hand, had the delicate touch of a properly sweetened dessert from a high-end restaurant. So, despite not being as balanced, well structured, or delicately perfumed as the Roslack, this was still pretty tasty. However, it is not something I would drink that often.

Very Good+
$55 at BCLDB

Schloss Johannisberger Roslack Riesling Auslese 2006

An extremely expensive bottle of Rheingau Riesling here - at $100 retail for a 375ml bottle. Here was a chance to taste greatness in a Riesling at last. The nose was replete with layered mineral aromas, multiple types of citrus (including some tropical citrus), and a very slight scent of petrol.

The palate was quite expansive with peach, apple, key lemon pie, spice, grapefruit, apricot, and an amazingly delicate texture. Like gossamer in the mouth, but with more weight and structure than expected from such delicacy and low alcohol, the Rosalat certainly was a very beautiful riesling. However, at this price I was expecting more. This was great paired with migneron cheese and caribou and fig terrine.

Excellent
$100 ($65 on sale) at BCLDB

Markus Molitor Wehlener Sonnenuhr Spatlese Riesling 2005

The other day brought the consumption of yet another German Riesling due to my propensity to eat asian food. Coming from a small but respected producer in Mosel, the wine's nose was very burnt and petrolly, with a touch of limey minerality. In a word, a standard nose with a bit more concentration than usual.

The palate was lime and rich apple (perhaps something like Royal Gala), but brought little else to the table. Well made, concentrated, but nothing super exciting, despite the vineyard and the vintage.

Very Good+
$42 at Private Liquor Stores

Schloss Johannisberger Riesling Spatlese 2006

Once a famed estate equivalent to the first growth Bordeaux's, Schloss Johannisberger's stature has diminished somewhat in recent years. However, looking for a good quality Riesling to pair with a tasty green curry one evening led me to this particular bottle, and I'm glad it did.

The nose was utterly explosive in minerality and grapefruit / slightly sweeter citrus flavours. The palate opened considerably from the nose to offer very distinct peach, nectarine, and candied grapefruit flavours. When coupled with the brilliant mouthfeel (as fluffy as a Cloud, but as elegant and poised as Raphael painting), the superbly balanced sweetness made this an outstanding riesling and a perfect match for thai curry. A nice long finish rounded everything out. Good stuff.

Excellent

$54 at BCLDB

Poet's Leap Riesling 2006

Poet's Leap is part of the Long Shadows project in Washington. This project is bringing some of the top wine makers from around the world to produce a single wine based on their expertise. This particular Riesling was made by Armin Diel of Schlossgut Diel.

This is a great buy and shows the potential of Washington for Riesling. A lemony-yellow in the glass (and quite dark for Riesling) this had citrus, apple and pear on the nose and palate. I loved the incredible body, structure and length of this wine. By far the best Riesling I've had in BC at this price point.

Excellent

$35 at Everything Wine, $40 at Kits Wine Cellar

Muller Catoir Riesling Kabinett 2006

After opening 2 corked wines in a row, I decided upon this Pflaz grown semi-dry Riesling. This was another classic German riesling, with very nice balance between the sugar and the acid, a low abv (10%), and a palate consisting of lime, clay and petrol. This wonderful example flits in the mouth like clouds and combines lightness with body and an incredible mouthfeel (perhaps my favourite component of German Rieslings). Overall, very well done.

Very Good+

$40 (purchased for $28 on sale) at BCLDB

Hirsch Gaisberg Riesling 2005

Austria - most North Americans unfortunately don't get a chance to experience the beauty of Austrian white wines. Producing dry versions of Riesling and the indigenous grape Gruner Veltiner, Austria is exciting, surprisingly modern, and relatively good value.

This Hirsch offering from a very good vintage was 13.5% abv and had smoky vanilla oak aromas coupled with clay and white minerals. The palate introduced some very pleasurable notes of honeysuckle along with the typical citrus. Very full and complex, this was also refined and balanced. A very nice Riesling, even if lacking the total complexity I've been longing for from Riesling.

$28 on sale (normally $40) at Marquis

Very Good+

Forstmeister Geltz Zilliken Riesling Spatlese Saarburger Rausch 2005

A short note today, in honour of summer and simplicity.

Another German riesling from the Mosel-Saar-Ruuer region. A nose of clay-like petrol expanded into a palate of citrus, apple and peach. This had a fantastic nose and nice flavours, but ended up with a mediocre mouthfeel for a riesling, which ideally should be light, airy and yet full flavoured.

Very Good

$45 at Liberty

Wine Blogging Wedndesday: Old World Riesling

With work beginning to gear up for the summer, it's nice to take a bit of a mental break with some old world grace. The wine I chose for this month's WBW was a Dr. Loosen Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese 2006, which comes from the Mosel region of Germany. Dr. Loosen is, of course, a high profile and well respected German Riesling producer, but I had not previously had a chance to try their old world wines.

The nose reminded me more of a dry riesling with citrusy lime and stark minerals. The palate, however, expanded to include peach and apricot that accomplished a nice balance with the citrus. While having a very full and supple texture, this was also light in the mouth and delicate. The sweetness level was well balanced and a nice full sip develops buoyantly into a silky finish. My only 'reservation' is the lack of complexity in the flavours. I would like a more developed and lengthy flavour profile - but the texture is in itself exceptional.

Very Good+

$38 at BCLDB

Markus Molitor Bernkasteler Badstube Kabinett Riesling Feinherb 2005

What's with the crazy German wine names. It's time to modernize guys! Anyhow, I just finished my second year of law school today, and it feels somewhat crazy. I actually opened a different bottle from this, but I figured I'd post this note first since I drank it last week (trying to be chronological and all). All I can say is that after taking both the hardest class and hardest exam I've ever taken (secured transactions) I can finally understand why corporate lawyers get paid so much... damn!

Ok, so on to the not so good review. I actually lost my notes for this in a recent cleaning frenzy, so I have to go on memory. I remember this being a bit simple of a Riesling, but that it also had pleasant classic Riesling flavours of lime and minerals. The finish was pretty short from what I remember, which put this below the more complex Slebach-Oster I had recently. This comes from the Mosel Saar Ruwer region.

Very Good

$30 at Marquis

Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Schlossberg Riesling Spatlese 2006

The first of many German rieslings I plan to consume over the summer. I know, it's premature, but I was hoping I could will in the weather while also beginning my treck through all things riesling. Essentially I've recently discovered how much depth and complexity riesling offers and realized that I knew very little about it. Thus began the journey into the Mosel region of Germany. Expect more riesling updates from Germany, Austria and Australia.

From what I can tell through my research, this wine is made with grapes from the southern facing Rosenberg vineyards in the Saar region of the Mosel valley, near the town of Oberemmel. Saar is in the southern portion of the Mosel River Valley and is renowned for its slate-gravel soil and its superb rieslings.

The nose promised baked peaches and toasted nuts, and yet had a bit of petrol - a result often found in German wines due to oxygen exposure during part of the winemaking process. Upon tasting the wine I found the sweetness perhaps a little overpowering, but the palate was quite pleasant with subtle minerals, hazlenuts, and a hint of citrus (maybe lime). A smooth and delightful wine that draws you into every sip. The low alcohol (9% abv - common for riesling) makes this easy to drink and mellow while giving the wine great potential to go with food. I had it with red snapper cooked lightly with herbs and olive oil. It was an excellent combination. A great start to the riesling treck, and one that prompts the superlative: I love riesling!

Very Good+

$38 at BCLDB

Eroica Riesling 2006

This Riesling from Washington state is a joint project between Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington and Dr. Loosen of the Mosel region in Germany - a superb producer of German Riesling. I am a huge fan of Riesling but I tend to drink Australian Riesling because of the price to quality ratio, so it's always exciting to try one from a new region.

The wine is quite pale, so much so that I wonder if this has been aged in Oak at all. The nose on this was rich tropical fruit with a hint of vanilla. The palate was replete with apple, tropical fruit and vanillan flavours (suggesting oak). This was quite nicely balanced between sweetness and acidity, but I found it perhaps a bit too fruit forward for my tastes. It's quite light and airy in texture, which is great, but I would like more complexity in the finish. This is, nonetheless, quite a tasty quaffer.

Very Good

$35 at BCLDB

Plantagenet Riesling Great Southern 2005

Tonight was an order-in sushi night. I also felt like some wine with the sushi, and I had heard that Riesling was a good pairing. Thus, I chose the Plantagenet Riesling from Western Australia, which I believe was chosen as the best value white wine at last year's Vancouver International Wine Festival. It was a good choice.

This is a pretty citrusy wine with a lot of lime action on the nose and palate. It's quite a well balanced wine with solid acidity that stood up to the spicy salmon and tuna rolls. It's also a dry riesling, which I tend to prefer to the overly sweet ones (except when they are made exceptionally well). The Plantagenet has a firm structure with a tart but very crisp finish. After about 30-40 minutes the palate revealed some pretty interesting and flavourful raw clay-like/limestone flavours. Overall, an exceptional value.

Very Good+
$23 at BCLDB